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保養Q&A/秋風時節也能有水感美肌?

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保養Q&A/秋風時節也能有水感美肌?

不曉得你是不是也覺得今年秋天似乎來的特別早,原本還油油的皮膚好像已經 不那麼油了,但無論是臉蛋兒或者是身體肌膚都變得容易乾燥,皮膚表面細紋似乎也變得更明顯,斑斑點點的「違章建築物」也相繼報到,實在令人傷腦筋。


對此,De Mon SPA營運長吳慧真表示,這是因為肌膚「缺水」啦!沒錯,秋風瑟瑟的時節,肌膚最需要的就是保濕。    


吳慧真指出,不只是氣溫和濕度都相對較低的秋冬時節需要注重保濕,其實不管是在太陽底下工作,或是待在冷氣空調室裡,處於這兩種環境下的皮膚是老化最快的類型,而主要原因皆來自「水份大量流失」。不過,吳慧真要特別提醒美人兒的是,皮膚是活的,當然也有自體的保濕機制,如何正確運用自體的保濕機制再輔以適用之保養品,保濕工作才能事半功倍。


吳慧真指出,保濕最主要的功能是保持表皮(角質層)正常的含水量,換句話說,讓角質層能維持正常的代謝循環,便是保濕工作之本。而當角質層含水量低於 10% 的時候,角質層就處於乾荒粗糙,連帶的柔軟度、明亮度都會下降,肌膚也會變得暗沉無光澤。此外,角質層缺水時,角質細胞就無法正常代謝,因此容易產生角質增厚及脫皮碎屑現象。


不過,吳慧真強調,正確的「保濕」,不一定是外用高保濕產品,而是先將皮膚的根本顧好,再搭配保濕產品,才能達理想效果。


但,何謂先將皮膚的根本顧好呢?吳慧真提出了一個「保濕新理論」,也就是:同時兼顧純淨舒緩、修護鎖水、防禦抗老,才能夠達到真正的超水感。


吳慧真進一步指出,當肌膚長期處於因環境造成污染與壓力下變的異常、脆弱、敏感時,必須先鎮靜肌膚穩定敏感狀況後再大量補給水分,可使角質層富有正常的含水量,如此一來肌膚便自然有光澤和彈力。先舒緩再進行補水可讓後續的保濕工作事半功倍,因此舒緩純淨是保濕第一道工作。


而第二階段則是「修護鎖水」,吳慧真指出,位處於亞熱帶的台灣,天氣變化較不穩定,秋季的溼度、溫度也相對降低,此季節皮膚的新陳代謝趨緩,加上陽光紫外線輻射仍然很強(俗稱秋老虎),相對的水分也因在夏季時大量流失。水份和肌膚老化、美白恢復有著密切的關係,水份由真皮層不斷循環代謝運送到表皮層,通常運到表皮層時只剩10%~15%,而隨著年齡老化負責輸送水份的通道也因逐漸萎縮,肌膚水分比例越來越降低。


一旦肌膚缺乏水份支撐,加上負責彈力的纖維母細胞生產質與量都在下降中,表皮角質排列變得紊亂,粗大毛孔也漸漸像失去彈性的衣服鬆垮更加明顯。吳慧真表示,由此可證,對彈力、膠原蛋白都不足的熟齡肌膚而言,光是保濕補充水分只能治標而無法治本,必需同時修護受損的細胞並且加強細胞再生,從內部去激活肌膚自體的補水、鎖水機制,並適時補充細胞運作時所需要的能量,才能徹底做到全面保濕。


當肌膚補充了滿滿的水份及養份且進行自我修護的工作後,最後所需要的就是將水分牢牢鎖住並且做好完整防禦,預防肌膚再次將水份流失。


另外,每當談到保濕保養時,很多愛美的朋友常認為,肌膚缺水時就多喝水,這樣就可以得到水嫩的皮膚。對此,吳慧真表示,多喝水是很好的生活習慣,而且足夠的水份才能代謝身體的毒素與廢物,但是喝水要喝到補充表皮的水份是不可能的,原因是水份、養份需透過血液輸送才能到達皮膚,而皮膚微血管分佈只到真皮層,表皮是沒有微血管,所以水份足夠可以供應真皮層的含水量,表皮的補水、保水與儲水則是需要靠保濕保養品來補充。
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